Style: New Additions
The trendsetting bags, shoes and jewels to covet and claim this season.
As ears were still ringing from last season’s heavy doses of metal (on footwear, on handbags, on groupie-fitting jackets), many designers likely assumed they’d be unique by striking the same chord for spring. As it turns out, an ongoing love for proto-“rock n’ roll” echoed from New York to Milan. On lead were Jean Paul Gaultier and Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin, who served up equally punky brews of leather and studs. The resounding message? Rebel, rebel—at least until fall.
If you’ve long shied away from the stark and natural, there’s arguably no better time to go free. Led by Raf Simons, Rick Owens and Calvin Klein, fashion’s perennial purist movement is surprisingly fresh this season—marked by a focus on innovative silhouettes.
Going against Americans’ supposed “love of excess,” spring’s abundance of decidedly naked designs ranged from sci-fi and architectural to soft and sexy—and served as further proof that you can make a statement (i.e., “simply stunning”) without bells and whistles.
While spring’s ikat-heavy ready-to-wear can certainly be credited with launching a rain
dance, the season’s bold accessories were less inhibited in their efforts to define fashion’s
forecast as “tribal;” oversized Cabochon-style stones topped hefty chest-plate necklaces
at Proenza Schoeler, chunky turquoise body jewelry encased red carpet-worthy dresses
at Marchesa and Sonia Rykiel’s repeated rainbow-bright-wooden-beads-on-a-braided-rope added a surprisingly exotic edge to her otherwise-cheery lineup.
Also on the “tribal council” were YSL’s Stefano Pilati and Alber Elbaz, whose chokers for Lanvin would have been believable as having totemic importance, if not first seen on a runway in Paris.
Photo credit: Photos by Carmen Troesser