Spring Beauty Manual
Take the season’s hottest hair, makeup and skincare trends from runway to real life.
Seen on the runway at Duyos. Bold and sassy, a bright-red lip is best paired with an otherwise neutral palette—and, of course, a winning smile.
Get the look: Imperative to this power trend is major color saturation. Invest the time (and extra cash) in a lip color with strong pigment and a stay-put attitude, like Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in La Fascinante #38  and NARS Red Square Velvet matte lip pencil . For the poutiest pout, Mary Slay, cosmetics and fragrances manager at Saks Fifth Avenue, recommends adding volume by dabbing a bit of high-shine gloss right in the center of your mouth to give the illusion of a fuller lip (Saks Fifth Avenue, Plaza Frontenac, 314.567.9200). Want even more “pow” to your pout? Visit St. Louis Cosmetic Surgery to discuss lip enhancement options, including fat transfers and fillers (17300 N. Outer 40 Rd., Chesterfield, Ste. 300, 636.530.6161).
Brow Is Back!
Guilty of some serious tweezing? Tami Scott, local makeup artist and creator of her own line, Tami Scott Cosmetics, says the first action to take is no action at all. Once you’re
back to au natural, you can determine where your brows should be with these “Tami Tips:” 1: Rest your makeup brush handle next to the side of your nose, and extend vertically. Find the point where the brush hits the brow bone; this is where your inner eyebrow should start. Then, fill in as needed in a color one shade lighter than your own.
2: Rest the brush handle next to your nose, and extend it towards the outer corner of your eye. Where the brush rests on the brow bone is where your eyebrow line should end. Again, fill in as needed.
3: To keep brows meticulously maintained, Scott recommends the brow sculpt duo from her line, which contains a wax and powder (2027 S. 11th St., Soulard, 314.346.8834).
The Cat’s Meow
Seen on the runway at Jakarta Fashion Week. Dramatic and sexy, the dark, sleek look of the modern cat eye reads “bombshell” like no other.
Get the look: Local makeup maven Candace Kolios, who’s worked with such big name brands as Chanel and Bobbi Brown, suggests starting with a neutral eye shadow and keeping the emphasis on the signature sweep of dark, dramatic liner. Her most important tip—don’t skimp on the mascara! Kolios swears by the Chanel INIMITABLE line and finishes the look with Bobbi Brown’s gel eyeliner  (Candace Kolios: 314.852.0600, mymakeupartistry.com; Bobbi Brown and Chanel cosmetics available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Plaza Frontenac, 314.567.9200).
Feel like you need a little more than mascara to maintain that feline fringe? Call Dr. Paul Rottler and inquire about Latisse, a daily application product intended to grow and enhance the appearance of eyelashes (13625 Big Bend Rd., Ballwin, 314.966.8880).
Center of Attention
Seen on the runway at Moisés Nieto. A model’s go-to, the minimalistic center part is a great way to showcase a smoky eye or statement lip.
Get the look: Phi Trinh, an expert stylist at Dominic Michael Salon, says the center part is all about giving a nod to the classic glam of the ’60s and ’70s (think Cher and Twiggy in their glory days). To smooth hair and add sheen, Trinh swears by L’Oreal Mythic Oil  and also uses the brand’s Texture Expert products to add a modern, voluminous element to the classic part style (8220 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.721.4230).
Up and Away
Seen on the runway at Honor. Perfect for when you’re tight on time, this unstructured up-do works for day and night.
Get the look: The key to the unstructured up-do is working with what you have. Embrace your texture—maybe even tease it a tad with a comb, suggests Lee Ann Weeden from GLAM. The unconstructed look is best achieved by separating the front from the back and then securing the back into a pony tail. Pull small, random sections from each side, sweeping and pinning them around the pony tail to complete the look (2724 Chippewa St., South City, 314.771.1175).
Seen on the runway at Peter Som. A subculture no more, the punk look (a tad subdued) is going mainstream.
Get the look: If it’s pink, purple or orange you’re craving, Illusions Color Spa sells a great temporary product called Color Bug by Kevin Murphy. It works best on light hair and includes multiple applications, so you can achieve the “punk princess” look any time the mood strikes (4579 Chestnut Park Plz., South County, 314.845.0118). Not quite ready for rainbow color? Try Regal Image Salon’s new hot-for-Hollywood dip and dye coloring. A major Hollywood trend, the hair is dyed to get lighter toward the ends (located in Metro Design Studio Salons, 612 N. McKnight Rd., Olivette, 314.629.4902).
Local Lines We Love
It’s the all-natural ingredients that make this Hanley Fold Farm line of fabulous little lip balms  so special. In addition to Shea butter, Vitamin E and olive oil, this lip balm also contains bees wax, an unexpected alternative to standard waxes or petroleum jelly (hanleyfoldfarm.com).
Plant The Seed
Blissoma products  run the gamut from botanically active skincare to artisan perfumes— all carefully concocted by STL founder Julie Longyear, a purist by nature . The line’s all-natural, 100-percent botanical perfumes are a must-have for the astute vegetarian and the socially conscious (iriestar.com; Whole Foods, 1160 Town and Country Crossing Dr., Town and Country, 636.527.1160; Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Rd., Tower Grove, 314.865.5260).
Coming Up Roses
Local mom Jean Scholtes started making non-irritating products to care for her family’s sensitive skin, and in turn, unwittingly formed a successful brand of skin and hair care products. Our favorite? KIND Soap’s Rosewater Creme ; we love it not only for its fabulous hydrating qualities, but also for the crave-worthy packaging (43 S. Old Orchard, Webster Groves, 314.517.2868).
Top It Off
Seen on the runway at Juana Martin. A runway staple, it seems the fashion world can’t get enough of the top knot.
Get the look: There are many tricks to perfecting a top knot, and Vita Kaiser, a stylist
at LookAfter Hair Company, knows them all. She suggests starting with a simply pony tail, and wrapping the length of the hair around the base. Secure the look with bobby pins, and finish with an extra-hold hairspray for maximum shine. Use your fingers to smooth and redirect any non-compliant strands (30 St. Louis locations, lookafterhairco.com).
Seen on the runway at TCN. A must-have look for your spring makeup repertoire, this warm-weather staple works particularly well with spring’s icy pastel hues.
Get the look: Start with a good base tan—faux, of course. While you’re at it, make the most of your tanning time with a faux glow containing a hydrating treatment and built-in anti-aging ingredients (Shine Sunless Tanning, 5 Brentwood Promenade Ct., Brentwood, 314.962.3628). Once your sunless tan has set (four to six hours), finish the look with a bronzing powder in a rich, earthy hue. We like Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess  with bronzing and highlighting elements (Neiman Marcus, Plaza Frontenac, 314.567.9811).
Three skincare products you can’t live without.
The Product: Azfasst Green Tea Gel The Expert: Dr. Anne Riordan, dermatologist and creator of Azfasst
Why it’s a must: According to Dr. Riordan, it’s the combination
of the three key ingredients that make the gel so unique and effective. Natural green tea extract coupled with salicylic and lactic acids help alleviate brown spots and fine lines—giving you a clearer, more refined complexion.
Where to find it: Online at azfasst.com, or at Wildwood Dermatology, 16516 Manchester Rd.,Wildwood, 636.458.8400.
The Product: Skin Medica’s TNS Recovery Complex The Expert: Mary McKaig, RN BSN
Why it’s a must: If McKaig and her coworkers refer to something as “liquid gold,” it must be good. In as little as three months, experts say you’ll see a difference in the texture and firmness of your skin—plus a noticeable decrease in wrinkle depth. With growth factors, soluble collagen, antioxidants and matrix proteins, the ingredients mimic those found in healthy skin.
Where to find it: Laser & Dermatologic Surgery Center, 1001 Chesterfield Parkway East, Ste. 101, Chesterfield, 314.878.3839.
The Product: Image Daily Defense Ultimate Preventive Moisturizer
The Expert: Dr. Amy Miller
Why it’s a must: Dr. Miller says that using a daily sunscreen (rain or shine) is still the best way to protect your skin from premature aging. She opts for Image Daily Defense Ultimate Preventive Moisturizer because it performs double duty as an effective sunscreen and daily moisturizer.
Where to find it: St. Louis Skin Solutions, 13100 Manchester Rd., Ste. 250, Des Peres, 314.543.4015.
The Nail Files
Don’t call it a comeback (they’ve been here for years), but the newest nails are undoubtedly more graphic than we’ve seen in a while . From spring’s Easter egg hues (perfect in beige, pink or robin’s egg blue) to the latest take on dark nails (a navy Gothprep lovechild), this season, it’s pretty much anything goes. The only exception? Length. The style-conscious are decidedly leaning toward a mid-length look with a square shape, according to Melissa Vitalis, assistant spa and salon director for The Spa at the Four Seasons. The long nail look is over! Drop by the Spa at the Four Seasons to get pampered while you get the look, or recreate it at home with the help of State Beauty Supply nail polishes (999 N. 2nd St., Downtown, 314.881.5800; 2351 Millpark Dr., Maryland Heights, 314.423.9599).
Seen on the runway at Sita Murt. They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but there’s one thing we can all agree on—pretty skin is always in.
Get the look: For the true beauty fanatic, airbrushing provides the ultimate fresh, finished look. Local makeup artist Christina D. Passanise specializes in the process and will even bring her services to you (636.346.3383, cstudiostl.com). If DIY is more your style, try Sephora’s Perfecting Cover Foundation  with a good balance of matte and shine . Test two or three shades on your jawline (not the back of your hand), and blend well, working from the middle of your face outward. Finish by lightly buffing your chin and neck to camouflage any contrast in color (Sephora, Saint Louis Galleria, 314.863.2600).
Wet & Wild
Seen on the runway at Roberto Torretta. No time to blow dry? No problem. Running out after a shower has never been easier, or more stylish, now that the “wet” look is so on-trend.
Get the look: Hair stylist Robert Govero says achieving the wet look at home is possible; you just need a few essentials. For ultimate hold, he recommends a combination of Osis Flexwax  and L’Oreal Lumi Controle Wax . Use your hands to evenly distribute a liberal amount through the hair, and sculpt the look with a rat tail comb. Finish by securing strands into a low, tight pony tail or tucking behind the ears (8111 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.6179).
Do the Twist
Seen on the runway at Majaco. It’s rare that an accessory is both decorative and utilitarian—the head-perfect scarf is all that and more.
Get the look: Meggan Decker of Pixies Hair Design takes the head scarf look from runway to real life with a few simple tweaks. She often twists the scarf into a modern headband, securing it at the nape of the neck and allowing the length to hang down. For extra soft or fine tresses, secure the scarf with a bobby pin to avoid slippage, or purchase one with texture for a more secure hold (2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.605.8417; scarf available at Ivy Hill, 304 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.367.7004).
No Pain, No Gain
There have been countless advancements in the skincare industry, and in-office procedures are still the gold standard for achieving and maintaining the look of your skin. Botox, resurfacing and peels are the go-to procedures at many spas and doctors’ offices. But, first, be sure you know the basics.
Once reserved only for the furrow lines between the brows, Botox is now being used for a few additional purposes. On the face, it can help diminish stubborn crow’s feet. It’s also proven to be a breakthrough for those who suffer from certain types of excessive sweating. (Find out more at Plastic Surgery Consultants of St. Louis at St. Anthony’s Medical Center, 10004 Kennerly Rd., Ste. 365B0, South County, 314.842.5885)
For real results in just one session, Fractional CO2 promises to improve texture, tone
skin and soften wrinkles. The laser targets just a fraction of the skin’s surface at a time, which for many, translates to quicker healing and minimal downtime. (Find out more at St. Louis Skin Solutions, 13100 Manchester Rd., Ste. 250, Des Peres, 314.543.4015)
The probiotic peel is the answer for those consumers looking for minimal downtime. According to Michelle Somers, director of Synergi MedSpa, the peel is unique because it works from the inside out to rejuvenate skin and improve tone and texture without the typical downtime associated with other peels. Synergi recommends a package of three for maximum results (17000 Baxter Rd., Ste. 100, Chesterfield, 636.530.6100).
Photo credit: Carmen Troesser