Hot Eats: Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse
River City Casino played its cards right by bringing this nationally recognized steakhouse and sushi bar to St. Louis.
When it comes time to making dinner plans, let’s be honest—a restaurant in a casino isn’t always on top of mind. And for me, unless the restaurant is on par with Hubert Keller’s SLeeK in Lumiere, I don’t usually have a strong desire to give it a try. That is, until Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse came along.
Located in the new and long-awaited $380 million River City Casino in South County, Jeff Ruby’s is not your grandfather’s steakhouse. For starters, there’s a raw bar where oysters on the half shell and Alaskan King crab are served market fresh and there’s also a sushi menu available. Second, you can find Midwest fare like baked potatoes and mac n’ cheese served alongside pan-roasted mussels and buffalo ricotta ravioli with sage and ham. I prefer tuna tartare to a side of mashed potatoes, but Jeff Ruby’s potatoes, especially the Potatoes Anna with its layers of lightly crisp, thin potatoes with melted butter, rivals the ocean-bound offering any day.
Restaurants that have great bread are memorable—it’s the first chance a place has to make a good impression with the food, unless they serve an amuse bouche. If they can get your attention with something so simple and standard, then it’s a place worth several visits. At Jeff Ruby’s, they serve rye bread with regular butter, but also an amazingly creamy and rich mushroom and truffle butter. I also ordered the Bourbon Street shrimp with grits and was satisfied with both taste and texture. The Saint Louis Bleu salad was an elegant presentation of chopped romaine, radicchio and Maytag bleu mixed with candied pecans and balsamic and served encased in a thinly sliced cucumber then topped with julienne apples.
But what people really come here for is the steak—all prime cuts and grilled to mouthwatering perfection. I couldn’t stop thinking about the steak Collinsworth, a center-cut filet that’s topped with a touch of crab meat and twigs of grilled asparagus then lightly covered with bearnaise and bordelaise sauce. There’s also Kobe strip steak and a USDA prime K.C. strip, and while I generally believe a good steak doesn’t need sauce, there’s a “for your steak” menu that includes a black peppercorn scampi, a red wine veal demi and bleu cheese crust that add a nice finish to the tender meat. And for those who may not be in the mood for heavy meat dishes, the entree list includes grilled Atlantic salmon, roasted Amish chicken and a cheeky pork and beans.
Jeff ruby’s Steakhouse
777 River City Casino Blvd. South County 314.388.7630 Entrees: $25-$38
Hours: Dinner Sun.-Thu., 5pm-10pm and Fri.-Sat., 5pm-11pm
The Steak Collinsworth with crab and asparagus
Photo credit: Photos by Jonathan Pollack