Hot Eats: Baileys’ Range
Well-known restaurateur David Baileys latest theme: meaty burgers and boozy milkshakes.
The new Baileys’ Range Downtown makes a few nods to its sister restaurants. There’s a Nutella crepe (Rooster), chili-chocolate-tequila milkshake (The Chocolate Bar) and a selection of 30 local beers on tap (Bridge).
Owner David Bailey is masterful at choosing a signature theme and creating a destination around it. This time, his inspiration comes from childhood memories of farm-raised beef and the home cooking it inspired. At Baileys’ Range, all of the beef is from Missouri and everything surrounding it is made from scratch—buns, ketchup, mustard, even the spice sprinkled over the fries.
Sweets with a Kick
Better still, all of the ice cream—18 flavors, plus seven sorbets—is house-made, too. You can eat them in a bowl, of course, but it’s oh-so-much tastier to slurp them through a straw in a float or shake, especially when alcohol is involved, as with the Sweet Sweet Bacon (bourbon, candied bacon and salted caramel ice cream shake), the Mojito (cachaça, mint leaves and lime sorbet shake) and the Chocolate Covered Raspberry (St. Louis Framboise and double chocolate ice cream float). Tempting as the ice cream is, the better pairing with Bailey’s burgers is beer. Drawn from 10 local microbreweries, the list is long and diverse, with quirky seasonal beers from newcomers, 2nd Shift and Perennial Ales, plus classic favorites from the old guard, like Schlafly Pilsner. The idea of sampling so many local beers without driving all over the metro area seems to appeal to a big crosssection of the Downtown community. Creativity points go to the soda pop list, organized by flavor and filled with niche bottlers you may not have heard of, including Ski, R-Pep, Virgil’s, Lucky Club and Sprecher. There’s even a handful of draft sodas (no Pepsi or Coke products).
Between the Buns
Mini animal icons form a little farm on the burger menu, with cattle outnumbering pigs, chickens, lambs and bison—but you can choose your meat for a slight upcharge, so if veggie patties on glutenfree bread are your dietary preference, you can still get the Ozark (local crimini mushrooms, onions and goat cheese) or On the Lamb (feta, cucumber, hummus and olive spread). Hard-core carnivores will go for the Basic or perhaps Dave’s Smoked Burger, but the adventurous will want to at least see whether cilantro aioli and peanut sauce work together on a fresh-ground chicken patty with cabbage and daikon slaw. (They do!)
Home on the Range
The restaurant’s home in the former City Gourmet grocery store is spacious almost to a fault—the servers have to hoof it to get from the kitchens to the upstairs tables, so unless you plan on tipping big, try not to send them running back for anything. On the other hand, the view of worker bees manning enormous stainless-steel mixers and turning out mountains of fresh bread and huge tubs of ketchup is inspiring. The “Range” in the name appropriately implies wide-open spaces, but it’s also a fitting description of the vast number of choices in beer, burgers and ice cream.
920 Olive St. Downtown
Burgers: $7 to $12
Boozy floats and shakes: $9
Hours: Wed.-Sun., 11am-1am
Photo credit: Photos By Jennifer Silverberg