Destination: The Good Pie
The welcome return of Mike Randolph’s The Good Pie has fans of the Neapolitan-style pizza lining up in University City for a taste. The restaurant took a six-month hiatus as they made the jump from their original Midtown location to The Loop. Much remains unchanged at the new Good Pie, with many of the same wood-fired pizzas and flavorful salads still to be found on the menu, though a sleek interior creates a more modern feel to Randolph’s second take on the concept.
The Good Pie’s design is a fun twist of casual sophistication —walls are adorned with wood paneling, the bar is topped with a smooth slab of marble and industrial metal accents help create clean, crisp lines throughout the space. Overall, the atmosphere feels very light and well designed, which should come as no surprise considering the folks at Space Architecture were responsible for the layout.
In all, the new space seats around 55 guests, which is a slight increase from the capacity at the Midtown location. Grab a table along a black leather banquette for a cozy spot to watch the action up at the bar or get a view of the 6,500-pound pizza oven from a perch up on a bar stool.
On the menu at the new space, there are still all of the classic pizzas and salads, although a few additions have been made by Randolph and his culinary crew. Chef John Messbarger of Randolph’s now shuttered Little Country Gentleman has come on board at The Good Pie. Messbarger has brought an arsenal of experience to the kitchen, creating house-made pastas and a more extensive selection of cured meats for daily specials.
The changes do not alter diner favorites, such as the Margherita D.O.P. pizza kissed by the 900-degree oven or the arugula salad simply adorned with lemon juice and shaved Parmigiano, which can still be found on the menu.
Another recruit from the Little Country Gentleman staff was bartender Jeffrey Moll Jr., who has brought a more refined cocktail menu to The Good Pie. An extensive array of aperitifs, vermouths, craft cocktails and digestifs are a welcome addition to the beverage program. As the weather warms up, give the refreshing mix of vermouth, Liquore Strega and house-made Earl Grey syrup a try in the Pennyworth’s vacation, which is just one of the nearly two dozen cocktails available. Beer and wine drinkers should be happy too with 10 taps behind the bar and a nice variety of vino available by the glass or bottle.
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. 6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9221.