A Winning New Restaurant
The Over/Under Bar & Grill scores with its unexpected and innovative menu and stellar sports-watching scene.
The Over/Under Bar & Grill bills itself as a sports bar; it certainly appears to be at first glance, with 37 high-def flat screen TVs splattered throughout the space and smaller screens in the dining room booths. But the menu tells a different story; white bean hummus and exotic mushroom risotto aren’t exactly the markings of a sports grill, and you don’t expect ingredients like truffle butter, baby spinach and chorizo to make appearances. When it comes down to it, it doesn’t make a difference how you label it—whether you go to watch a game or enjoy a refreshingly delicious dinner, you’ll want to bet money on The Over/Under.
Upscale Sports Bar
The Over/Under opened somewhat quietly during All-Star Week, a well thought-out plan considering its location is just shy of two blocks from America’s Center where MLB Fan Fest was held. And its patio, hidden from Wash Ave by tall bushes, features a 150-inch projection screen and also attracted a nice crowd during a prime sports-watching week. Post All-Star activity Downtown, The Over/Under remains a spot to watch a Cards (or Rams) game—I’ve meandered over from my loft a dozen times this summer to perch on the patio and enjoy a plate of gorgonzola fries.
A Winning Menu
The menu is a mix of appetizers, “hand helds” (sandwiches and burgers) and large plate —items are recognizable bar fare, but include unexpected twists or are an upscale version of the classic. Take the chicken BLT served with choice of homemade waffle fries, salad or fruit like strawberries and cantaloupe—the peppered bacon is served with a delicious avocado ranch sauce on ciabatta. Or the American Kobe sliders, elevated beyond an average pub dish with a side of truffle-scented fingerling potatoes. The mac n’ cheese, well-crafted with Tillamook cheddar and parmesan, is available with bacon or crab. Prince Edward Island mussels are delicately prepared and served with housemade chorizo, steamed with garlic and Guiness. The stuffed nacho small plate is just that—a flour tortilla stuffed with beef, chorizo and red beans and fried, then covered with cheese sauce. What it lacked in color, it made up or in taste—slight peppery and tasty with either the avocado crema or salsa sides.
Big plate options include a nice grilled Atlantic salmon and St. Louis-style ribs, but the Cajun pasta is a standout—that is, if you can stand the heat. The combination of chorizo, jumbo shrimp and fettucine is mixed with a tomato sauce that is unexpectedly spicy. And if there’s one dessert I’d bet on, it’s the ice cream trio—perfect to share, it includes three upside-down waffle cones, served over three scoops of varying flavors of ice cream.
Photo credit: Liz Reiff Sloan